September 2025 – The bikes are on their way home to the UK. A stupendous waste of resources, money, and CO2 emissions, forced on us by the very restrictive Latin American vehicle importation/tourism rules. We were open to offers to buy the bikes as we can’t ride on, although we weren’t in a good location, and didn’t have much time, either. So hardly surprising no buyer (strictly, borrower, due to said rules) turned up. What we’re not allowed to do, is leave them on this continent.

Our Bikes

We thought about taking “special bikes” from the UK, but our UK bikes didn’t strike us as especially suitable (Gid’s 2017 CB500X might have been, but was worth less than the cost of shipping it, and Clare didn’t like it while she owned it). We didn’t fancy anything too elaborate or expensive, and knew some roads would get tricky. The two bikes had to be buyable in Alaska or nearby, and we wanted them to be more or less identical. We wanted to try examples out in the UK. The bikes had to have dealer and spares support strung out along the route.

Gid is 62 and a weedy 72Kg, 5’10”, Clare is a bit older and a sturdy 60Kg, 5’6″. We’re not hunks who can lift a dropped loaded GS alone. Or even together.

We fairly quickly ended up with a shortlist of two:

• Honda CRF300 Rallye (or close relative)
  • Hondas are notoriously reliable
  • Honda have a big presence, dealers in all countries
  • Fairly light – Great dirt road capability
  • 28hp isn’t a lot, but it’s more than the other option
  • Cruises at highway speeds, just about
  • Too tall for Clare out of the box
  • Shock is famously awful (and contributes to height) -> shock change
  • Can’t drop forks > 10mm, -> short spring rebuild to really lower
  • No standard luggage -> Fettling required, and not all easy to get, probably personal import from Thailand.
  • In early 2024, USA Honda dealers could not commit to supplying one or two, and UK supply was tight too.
  • I did buy one in the UK, put a lowering link on – still too tall for Clare – and studied the luggage parts I’d need to get. I liked riding it, but…
• Royal Enfield Himalayan 411
  • (At this time the 452 was revealed but unproven and unavailable in USA).
  • Has gained a reputation for robustness and reasonably reliable, and easy to work on.
  • RE have dealers across the Americas, though smaller countries may not (Belize, El Salvador missing).
  • Rather heavy for what it can do, but capable on rubbish roads
  • Cruises at 60mph rather than 70mph, rather limiting in some places
  • Nice and low …
  • …and comfy (although I made myself a seat with 25mm more height, that’s simple compared to a major suspension drop, and it isn’t essential)
  • Stuff like protection, centre-stand, rear rack is already there (and counts as part of the stated wet weight, add 12Kg to most other bikes spec weights).
  • All of the standard bike is good enough, the only parts “everyone” recommends changing are the headlight bulb and the relays.
  • Sound cases and luggage mountings are a option tick and pretty cheap.
  • The Alaska dealer had them in stock ,”which colour?”, and was happy to deal with foreigner paperwork.
  • We decided to add third party engine bars, as well as the luggage racks but otherwise we rolled bog standard except for minor additions discussed below.
  • We each bought one in the UK. I prototyped an electrical loom and accessories to take out.

Basically, the Hondas, if we could get them, was going to be a helluva lotta hassle and cost to prep. And I’d potentially be doing this in a snowy motel car park.

In fact, the Alaska RE dealer offered us a good deal on a 2022 which had needed warranty work (wrongly assembled piston rings, so bad running, so a cylinder rebuild). It was quite a saving, and already kitted with racks, panniers, engine bars, auxiliary fuel tanks, handguards and a few other bits. It’s been fine so far, although it seems there were quite a few changes in the 2023, fixing minor issues, so not everything I brought out for it fitted.

Our Anchorage AirBnb offered the use of her garage for our prep work, so I wasn’t in the rain as I added our electrical accessories:

• Direct to batteries
  • Heated clothing outlet (Gid’s never used)
  • SAE outlet/charge/jump/inflator point
  • Supplementary earth star on battery
• Via relay & fuses & low tech spade connectors
  • Voltmeter on dash
  • Double USB on bars
  • Single USB under pillion, to charge power pack
  • Aux lights (just little markers to make us look bigger)
  • Garmin wiring (Clare)
  • Heated grips (Gid)

And a few bits:

• LED H4 headlamp bulbs
• LED taillamp bulbs (USA models have ordinary bulbs, unlike rest of world). Although after only 6,000 miles or so, they had faded to be almost invisible, and we replaced them again.
• Front mudguard lifts (to improve mud clearance)
• Shock socks (Clare made)
• Helite leashes at both seats, both bikes.
• Handguards (Gid’s, Clare’s already had)
• Bar risers (Gid’s)
• Taller seat, DIY stuffed (Gid’s)
• 4xadjustable levers, except Clare’s 2022 had an older pattern, so it missed out until we had a later opportunity to source the right part.
• Givi toolbox with DIY brackets inside Gid’s LHS rear rack.
• The other three insides-of-racks have Clare’s “oil bags” for carrying messy stuff.
• And of course all the bags and boxes.
• Gid’s preload maxed out, Clare’s is max-1.

Until about 14 months and 30,000+miles the only issue with the Himalayans has been that, once loaded, the standard sidestand is too long, and my bike actually toppled over a couple of times on the Dalton, leaving me red-faced beside it (especially the time my airbag was still connected). A lovely Alaskan, Tim, who I’d met on the ADVRider forum offered to shorten them, and less 20mm, they’ve been fine since. If I’d known in advance I could have flown out with short ones, it’s a fairly simple fettle.

• 20mm shorter sidestands
• Clare bought a sheepskin seat cover at the Dust to Dawson, and Tim gave Gid one too!
• Our Fairbanks AirBnb helped Gid make a ply rear rack that better supported the Walmart petrol can than the OEM rack’s small plate. Alas, 11 months later, in Panama’s rainy season, it is starting to delaminate. In Colombia at Donkey Sunrise, it got relaminated and varnished, then the rain stopped.

At about 15 months and 30,000+miles, Clare’s clutch started to make a nasty squeal when engaging cold in first. An expert diagnosis was “clutch basket wear”, and no real issue, ride on. However, out of an abundance of caution, we had the entire clutch changed. That’s about it for “troubles” as against consumables. More details below.

Bike Service and Hiccup History

This is a bit anal, and really only here because it has to be somewhere. It might be vaguely useful for others, I suppose, and if we sell them …

Most recent at the top. The actual history is maintained on my phone, I dump it here every few months.

16th September 2025. Near Perico, Argentina. Clare has a spill. Not a big one, 25-35kph. Slide 15ft on tarmac, 3ft on gravel. Some fuel knocked out of RHS aux, but although scraped on lower front it’s still sound. Swap to LHS so it’s inward. RH pannier corners scraped but ok. RH pannier rack is bent in a little, but this may not be new. Scrape on mirror and handguard, but this may not be new. Handguard needed tightening only. GoPro charge lead badly abraded. RHS Lomo, oddly, just fine. RH peg might be bent back slightly, but this may not be new. Gid rode bike back 30km from police. Seems ok although is the steering loose again?

11th. AM noticed Clare’s rear axle is crooked. Well fwd, about 3 turns plus, on RHS. PM, set about fixing. Axle actually stuck, won’t turn or slide. Took some big wallops via wood, on main nut, to get it straight. Adjusted. Now brake rubs less, too. Gid’s also slightly out, adjusted. Slightly tighten Gid’s headset, noting big nut little more than finger tight. Tightened nut before resecuring top yoke to legs.
10th Sept, San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, noticed three things. AM. Tyre pressures a bit low (@600m). Also, on Gid’s, the tiewrap securing clutch cable to down tube, and wiring to rear, is AWOL. Clutch cable slightly fouls fork brake hose on lock. No evidence was garage, maybe just broke. Replaced. PM, noticed both bikes, the rear hose clip on swingarm now (?) has 2 fat washers under, reducing the rubbing on top of swingarm. Suspect Arequipa, as quite obvious. Probably good, keep eye on.

6th, oil on floor under Clare’s, back to taller who fess to oil spill in bash plate. Clean bash off, and also tighten bolts on clutch cover – some along bottom moved. Two rides available to test before exit Peru! Back brake still rubs, but I don’t think they looked at that. Immediately stopped at gas stn and Gid’s fuel cap super pressured. Go back again to release presumed trapped hose. Rode ~100km, fairly fast roads, Clare’s underside clean, level unchanged. Ok.
Fri 5th Sept. Collected bikes 5ish. Clutch & sprockets apparently slow to arrive from Lima.
29th Aug. 32,591m, Clare’s 34,121m. Into Arequipa RE (see specific item in Joplin). Major service, Clare’s complete new clutch pack, both bikes got new steering bearings (again!). Oil and filter, air filter, new chains and sprockets. Spark plugs, Valve check. General Check. Gid’s same except clutch. They couldn’t obtain new cush rubbers so they did some supplement on the old ones with extra rubber. I don’t think they did anything with the rear calliper except bleed it. On return to base, reversing the bike, it squealed a bit, so Damian poked it – resolved, so it’s the pins sticking, even with my copperslip (NB: See axle later above).
22nd Aug. 31932.2m. Cusco. Work on Clare’s bike, 33466.8m. Noise not reproducing, but it’s warmer here, and Damian appalled we don’t let warm up. It was happening in early, high, cold locations. Slightly tighten chain, 3/8 turn maybe. Slightly tighten headset – unfortunately need to undo handlebars to get 30mm closed spanner under, on Clare’s without bar risers. Need punch for C nut. Raise brake pedal somewhat. No error codes. Oil level ok, maybe toward lower end.
21st. Clare’s noise again. Again from cold, no slope this time. Only with clutch, so what? Clutch?
Clare’s rear brake pedal a bit low, maybe from the alarm about rear dragging. Front squeaks a bit too – maybe dust in it, have been dusty days.
20th. Setting off from hotel, Clare’s bike made a nasty noise, squeal, bit like loose belt. Had been standing a few days (on sidestand), facing a bit uphill. Wonder if clutch dry? Had done oil check, and accepted “low” as slope, definitely some though. Check clutch adj.
Also, 20th, Gid rode Clare’s a bit. Headset loose again – Clare had remarked. Thought front susp soft, low fork oil? No leak tho.
Later, it did it again, once, maybe twice. Me, or the bike?
6th. Gid’s bike slipped out of 5th, once. Not the on off on off type, came completely out. Changed to 4th, then firmly to 5th, no repeats.
5th. Lots of manhandling. Noted Clare’s rear brake still rubs a little.
4th. Morning checks for noise discussed below. Gid’s. Front upper engine bolt took 1/4 turn. So did the lower rear of the top triangle (suspect rounding of the 12mm nut). (Clares same bolt also took 1/4 turn). Checked both front sprockets, noticeable wear but ok, photo of Gid’s, Clare’s a bit better. Cleaned out awful load of dirt from both. Checked all rear suspension bolts except swingarms, but no sideways movement. Tighten Gid’s chain 1/4 turn. Gid’s rear wheel has one loose spoke by valve. Tightened, and tightened up a few more dull ones, better, not perfect, and a slight in-ding in one place. Tighten one dull one in Clare’s rear. Both front wheels’ spokes evenly pingy.
Location has slight slope, on CS, Gid’s oil halfway, Clare’s looks empty, but wasn’t the other day, is probably slope. Added 150ml anyway.
Noted (photo) that Clare’s front wheel has been assembled crushing one of the speedo alignment pegs. That must have been at the Quito tyre change. ~100km excursion to Leymebamba, potholed minor road. Gid’s odd noises gone.
3rd August. Gid’s bike has a knock, which I sort of feel under me or in the pegs. It most happens after a bump, then accelerate, there’s a few knocks, then it mostly goes quiet. On a brief check, can’t find any loose bolts or obvious problems. Chain maybe slightly slack. But on C/S, noted chain very dry, squeaks when run. Wheel true, but there are loose spokes.
Clare’s: rear brake rubs slightly.
28th. Noted on leaving Gid’s LH upper pannier/rear rack bolt has got rack not closed to frame. Managed maybe 1/2 turn, still not closed gap, but don’t want to overtorque. Have dripped a little oil on thread, no difference. Gid’s bike, is there a new vibration, that might be chain? Or motor, or new tyres! Going well though. Clare observes one slip out of gear on hers.
23rd, 29499? Quito. Both bikes, new set of Motoz Tractionator GPS, Freedom Bike Rental. Rear 130/80 again. Over $800. Both rear TMM still legal and ok, maybe 3-4mm in centre. Fronts not even on centre nobbles a few bald, most some mms. Advised that Gid’s rear axle nut was only finger tight! Clare put helmet on RH mirror, and broke GoPro mount. Afterwards, Gid noted Clare’s speedo sensor locator misaligned and bent.
20th, Gid’s, a sensation of something bumping while taking off gently. Chain tension ok (both bikes). Has been rainy, so lubed. Maybe resolved, didn’t notice it 23rd.
16th, before start, carefully bleed Clare’s rear brake – it’s full of air. Better during day.
14th, near end of day, Clare observes rear brake ineffective, pedal drops. No ride 15th.
12th July, after some days off, at Donkey Sunrise, dismantle and clean thoroughly, but without hydraulic dismantling, Clare’s rear caliper. Replace brake fluid too. Pad rears copperslip, pin Ron’s ordinary, if expensive, grease.
7th July, shortly after setting off on excursion from Donkey Sunrise, Clare complains bike not pulling. A bit later “oh shit, brake broken”. Fortunately just trundling along easy straight. Indeed, pedal flops under slight pressure. Touch cylinder top of rear caliper, burn finger. Cool with water, which boils off. Cool, works again. It has sometimes squeaked on operation since pad change. Clare now realises that a few times she thought her foot had slipped off, but maybe it was boiling then too. Next couple days poke occasionally, no reoccurrence. While rider error is possible, a caliper service seems wise.
3rd July. Filled up and rode 60km. At break, Clare’s bike is dribbling gas from around the throttle body. Fuel line & pump dry. Problem turned out to be leaking seal where the fuel gauge sender is bolted into the bottom of the tank. Right after a service. I reckon the tank had been put on pinching the evap pipe, and it had overpressured the tank and burst the seal (o ring). Were in village, I helped taller get tank off. New o ring. $50k cop, about £9, plus tips. Gid’s going well, but OBD2 oil temp a bit higher than I feel it was. Not super warm, but quite a bit of tortuous climbing at 30-35mph. Possibly new front pads dragging a little. Disk warm, caliper cool.
1st July, Medellin. Gid ~28167, Clare ~29366. 30,000m/45,000km service at RE. Oil & filter & clean strainer, cleaned air filters,,valve checks, general checks. Gids rear wheel 3 bearings replaced, front pads, worn and some crumbling, replaced. Clares front wheel 2 bearings replaced, steering bearings replaced and new gaiters. Note we already had all these parts apart from the front pads. 910k col, which is £167.
17th June. 28814miles Clares. Swapped out Clare’s (recentish) dubious provenance rear pads, which have been ok, to new Ferrodo upgraded ones for better braking offroad, as in per pedal pressure, as problem in Nicaragua. Brushed down. Did not redo sliders as recent. Axle & bearings & cush all look ok, regreased only axle, adjusted chain slack & lubed. Also new Ferrodo improved front pads, although some wear left on old pads. Regreased sliders, which seem fine. If on CS front up and I pull hard on top of fork lowers, can feel some looseness. Lower caliper slider rubber a bit prone to coming off though. Front ABS sensor allen bolt rounded out.
17th June. 27292Gids. Put in the dubious Nicaragua pads that were in Clare’s (above), my old ones pretty much finished. Cleaned and RRGreased pins. Clare’s pads look fine, but look close to half worn already, perhaps very soft. Gid’s front pads (changed below), also already half worn.
6th June. Took Clare’s bike, as couldn’t reset spanner. Online instructions are wrong, it uses SET only not MODE. (Later set time, too, that’s a 3s press on MODE and SEL. Gid riding Clare’s bike, feels something loose at front, maybe under braking? Inspected with mechanic, nothing except RHS aux tank rattles on fitting. Gid wonders if F caliper a bit loose on its,sliders? Normal. Of course, pads pretty low. Monitor. Also, noted throttle lock hits GoPro mount, loses last bit of travel, can’t accelerate fully. OTOH, Clare’s will go into N from first. Battery voltage across town 13.8/13.9, quite a bit lower than mine was before the new headlamps, but Clare’s battery will have been hungry, too.
5th June. Gid’s bike receives new bash plate, $100 fitted at RE Campin Bogota. Also grabbed set head bearings $50. Mechanic said my oil was low they topped it up – negligence!
2nd June. This is all non-riding time, in Bogota. Checked both bikes for codes (after the apparent altitude issues). No codes. Tried to reset Clare’s service indicator (hold MODE during turn on and some seconds), either switch broken, or it’s not MODE. Is under warranty until July 7th. Clare’s battery voltage is only 12.1V after all this sitting ~2weeks. Mine about 12.6V. New battery? Size is 151 X 87 X 105mm. Lithium might save 2.5Kg for $50 more (double).
31st May. Realised Gid’s long-rattly bashplate is broken at rear right tab.
29th May Gid shuttles Clare’s bike short way. Is the steering a bit loose?
23rd May. Few short city rides in Bogota. Gid’s still weak for first 5 mins. Let it idle 5 mins. Called at RE Campin to take a set of wheel bearings (4 same for wheels, 1 large for sprocket). Ended up with 2. And, 2 new headlamp bulbs. 45W LEDs! Have cooling fan so rear rubber discarded. Realised that perhaps the ones we have are dereriorated like the tail lights.
22nd May. Bike unloaded from flight Panama City to Bogota. Gid’s bike started but very feeble, 800rpm idle. Weak throttle response. Died three times when coming to halt. Worrying. But cleared fairly soon. Think just needed time to adjust to 2600m jump in altitude. Clare gave hers a long idle, then no issues. Also, we put in higher octane fuel in Co, as weren’t sure about the low, it’s lower than we’ve had for a while.
18th May. Pre-flight hand car wash. No pressure hose. No apparent ill effects.
27th, after a hot day’s ride, noted Gid’s bike a bit of a tapping noise at idle.
25th, Panama. MODE button on Clare’s dash totally U/S, even with stone.
14th, no riding 13, 14th. Changed rear bulbs to LED spares bought in CDMX. Much brighter, brake distinct.
12th, foggy, rainy ride. Realised both bikes the rear LED bulbs had got really dim, especially brake (IIRC brought from UK, fitted in CDMX, so 12,000 miles ago). DANGEROUSLY SO.
3rd 23951. Both into TodoMotor, San Jose, CR for 24,000 service. Oil & filter, sparks, air filter (latter not on bill, but I saw them), valves. New chains. Clare’s rear hose rubbing fixed by rerouting. Gid’s front wheel trued, and balanced (no weights!). Noted spokes now much tighter. Also they replaced Gid’s head bearings. Only flaw is use of Bel-Ray EXP Synthetic Ester Blend 15W-50 4T Engine oil. ie semi-synthetic. Next service <6000 miles then? About $700 both.
25th. 23577. Clare’s rear brake. Shop finds some unmarked, possibly mispackaged (open bag), rear pads that match and fit. £3. Pad wear unevenness actually very minor, sliders fine but cleaned and copperslip’d. Pads changed. Axle fine but added a little grease (almost liquid in this heat). Took pic of cush rubbers. Brake pedal moved up <2cm. Rode 100km next day, brake seems ok.
23rd. Clare drops on LHS as can’t reach ground on horrible track to Mombacho Lodge. I’d stalled in front, and in front of me a too-slow SUV. Only damage seemingly a more bent gear lever, marginally fouling. I was able to pull it back out manually. Time for replacement perhaps.
22nd March, 23422 (mine), taped Clare’s rear brake hose where rubbing on swingarm. Can feel it was almost through the supplementary rubber sheath.
18th March, Nr Esteli, after steep loose rocky descent from Matagalpa accom, Clare complaining was pushing as hard as poss on rear brake, still gaining speed. Gid tried on flat at hotel 18th, both bikes similar. Only difference perhaps Clare seated on descent – harder to press hard. However, do see that Clare’s rear pads v low, and uneven, looks like caliper slider pins sticking, need attention.
13th March, all 4 tyres about 4psi low (we’re now at sea level). Pumped up to std. Later, en route to Bluefields. Hit another hole – didn’t see until last minute. Not really bad one, at 40ish. Semi swerved and semi standing and didn’t feel it bottom out, don’t think it did. Nonetheless, noticed a slight bar shake when hands off. That might have been there, or latent, for ages, revealed by restored tyre pressures and worrying. Bar shake bit no visible fork shake. Took midday break and observed one loose spoke, this one, and the “kiss”, about halfway between valve and weight (old ding). Put a little tension on the spoke. Span wheel next morning – no worse than before but maybe even more irregular (also noticed savage tool marks on LHS from someone’s tyre irons). Think this is gradually getting worse and professional attention maybe beneficial (there’s an RE in CR). 
11th March, Granada. Recheck wheel, good. Tyre pressures had got very low, all 4 about 4psi down, note now at sea level and very hot, even in this shade. Gid’s oil mid level. Clare’s maybe slightly under half but maybe tilted, recheck.
**** Around this time, Gid’s steering lock a bit reluctant to release. Good squirt of chain lube up lock and down keyhole resolved, did Clare’s too.
1st March, Tegucigalpa, 22251. Went through front wheel, every 4th, tapping and adding tension if didn’t ping. Some pretty loose, incl same as before. Runnout about unchanged, noted large component of lateral is rim spread, not runnout. Also noted tyre is substantially compensating. Chain pretty loose, tightened 1 1/4 or more, to 30mm. Clare’s only 1/2 turn.
25/26 Feb 22,001. 25th Gid hit pothole at 30-40mph, felt ground out. Heavy rain, couldn’t see fork end or feel issue, and 30mph barely achievable. 30 more miles. 26th inspected, same place as Mexico, about 5mm out to RHS near weights, 2-3mm radially. Two right-pulling spokes rattly loose. Advice on REForum. 2 days to Tegucigalpa, has RE dealer & workshops, will tighten those 2 and ride there. Tightened them (one was very loose!), which left the between LH loose, so tightened that. Lateral wobble rather less, radial unchanged 2-3mm. By bicycle stds, spokes are very uneven and loose. Professional rebuild maybe good?
23/25/26 Current (white foamy) chain lube from Belize doesn’t last on rainy days.

13th Feb 2025. There was quite a lot of damp in the toolkit. Was heavy rain maybe 2 weeks ago. Slight rust on ruler and long 19mm socket – both oiled.
13th Feb. 21387. Not many miles! Gid’s bike creaked on a bump last week – bolt check! Front thru bolt slightly loose, added ~1/8th turn to nut. Lower rear thru ditto, ~1/4 turn. Clare’s both front thrus a bit loose (as in, can fairly easily rotate bolt end with wrench). Upper 1/4 turn. Lower – can’t get anything on nut, need to remove bash plate or exhaust (maybe 17mm cranked ring spanner?). Both the rear bolts on upper steady a bit loose, tightened (note risk to nearby wire to cylinder!). Both Clare’s LH windscreen bolts have pulled thru rubbers, assembly sloppy. Improvised fix.
15th Jan. ~20xxx. Been stopped 2 weeks in Quetzaltenango. Before that, quite a bit of rain. Clare’s sidestand has been stiff for a while – doesn’t ping, although has a lot of sideways slack. Lubed with chain spray, quite a bit freer. Bolt pivots in bracket and stand pivots on bolt. Is freer when moved to middle of sideways slack. Possibly some wear in bolt. Could do with checking, but need spring puller and either dealer or machine shop.

2nd Jan. ~20440, Flores, Changed Gid’s front pads, which were close to fully worn, maybe 1mm left before slot gone. See joplin://x-callback-url/openNote?id=2f15e04c336644dbb225d72909732789 no issues in job, although better to hold pads in while remove pin, so that spring clip orientation is clear. Note, remove spring clip and ease pin before dismount caliper. Had to feel the 45Nm bolts. Used threadlock, no sign of previous. Brushed caliper cleanish, but did not strip down sliders, which seemed fine, rubbers ok, pistons felt fine too. Pic of new pads, from Hitchcocks or RE CDMX, can’t remember [Pic not in blog]

Also 2/1/25 replaced missing screw at rear of small exhaust heatshield. Bought some more split washers.

2024 below 2025 above

19th Dec. Realised each pannier rack has 3, not 2, bolts to frame (2×60mm cheese, 1x45mm button). Suspect Gids RHS rearmost loose, but on closer look ok. However, not only is upper rear toolbox pclip loose on rack, the lower front strap-toolbox screw has come completely out but is trapped (lost only 2xm10 washers). Reassemble with threadlock at box and rubber inside pclip. Lower pclip also a bit slack, but don’t think these matter much, loop is still secure. Think bulking tape has squashed, bolts still snug.

9th Dec. 19399 (Gid’s), Clare’s oil a bit low, added nearly 300ml, Motul 7100.

7th Dec (?), track. Gid’s bike maybe new rear rattle, Clare’s dropped on LHS, no damage.

4th Dec (??), dropping off kerb, Clare misses foot, drops bike on LHS. Handguard displaced but not damaged.

27th Nov. B. near EoD just before late lunch, Gid hit big pothole hard, close to 60mph. Felt it. No immediate bad effect but possibly observed fork ends shaking (what’s normal?). At lunch noted big flattening in front rim (D shaped, nearly 5mm off, and bead displaced), and adjacent spokes loose. Distinct pattern left on rim side and tyre, where they rubbed at impact (rear has too). Clare hit one too, but survived. Mechanic over road. Bashed mostly ok, but can’t quite perfect as can’t bash on balance weights. Pressed a bit too. Lots of time, family effort… Seems a thoughtful and careful worker, tho noted no new threadlock on disk or grease on axle (which is a little dry). Not sure tyre went on in same position, balance may be out… Noted pads now really quite low, but a few mm of groove still shows. Need to lube chains, dry after Mineral de Monte rain.

A. Just before leaving Kippolite(?), noted Gid’s RHS pannier rack front bolt loose, tho not far out. Tightened, but allen socket is failing, need new bolt. Also RHS sjde plate upper rear nearly completely backed out.
18th Nov. 17388. Gid’s plasticky front rattle now much worse, short day but cobblestones. Its sharp little bumps, not heaves. And, latterly sounding mettalic. Pulling and pushing at front, nothing loose.
Front lower engine mount thru bolt seems a bit loose (est <10Nm). Shiney surface on crankcase suggests maybe some shift, tho TT did clean. Tightened but limited force as need short extn or risk clouting fuel pump (probably 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor would suffice, paired). Rear upper steady also pretty loose (not as loose as Clare’s was). Others ok. Upper racks, crosspole pinch bolts not very tight, tightened, did not remove. Upper bolts also not very tight, removed, threadlocked, tightened. Two bolts holding dash plate also removed and threadlocked, tho were tight. Two nosecone cap heads won’t budge, left.

Caveats to 6th/7th: Did not add new threadlock anywhere, and timing port washers not replaced. Think drain bungs were, as very shiney. Not sure these LEDs are very bright brake lights. Will keep under review. Both tanks went on fairly easily this time. Below valve checks, air filters, rear bulbs, took about 5 hours. Note no valve adjusted though.
Noted both bikes front pads a bit low, wear indicator now 50% of depth.

8th Nov. Read Gid’s fault codes, P1642. Not documented, asked. As 163x is headlight, it’s probably from my removal of relay FL, which is not headlight, then RL which is.
6th/7th Nov. Clare. Fixed rattly headlamp (loose at top – lost the rubber, put tape instead, 6 layers). Replaced air filter. Keep old a bit in case Gid’s gets oil blowback. Valve check. Plug nice beige colour. Airbox/injector hose good. Ex 0.23 goes 0.25 doesn’t Ok. In 0.08 goes, just, 0.10 does not Ok. No fault codes. Noted taillamp not working, filament blown, swapped in the other LED.
Gid Replaced air filter. Valve check. Noted the bigger tank pipe (overflow?) split and detached from tank, as Clare’s was. Spark plug a little black, not beige, although had done 4 short starts to clear fault light, may account. Airbox/injector hose good. Ex barely 0.24, won’t take 0.25 Ok. In 0.1 but not 0.11 Ok.
4th/5th November 2024. Gid 17262miles. TT Motors, Mexico City. Oil and filter change, 15w50 fully synthetic Motul 7100 got by me from factor nearby. Filters by me from RE Polanco. On pickup, both showing expected red in glass, mine is above window, though not by much. Fork oil changed (10W Motul also supplied by me), no proof. Headsets checked, regreased, adjusted (no proof!). Both bikes checked for minor possible looseness (Clare’s) or glitchiness (mine, extreme RH). Cleaned and the nut stacks on Clare’s fork brace replaced with spacers. Chains lubed, generously. Gid reset Clare’s service indicator.

TT Motors, seem to do a few classic Brits – done. Seem ok.
Costs: RE filters and air filters: Noting air filters more than 4x price of oil filters. $1350 
Factor Motul 7100 4L plus 2L Motul 10W fork oil, omitting spare oil. $1645 
Factor 1L spare oil $300
TT Motors labour $4500
Total $7800 = a shade under £300.

Gid notes Clare’s very rattly at front, headlight ring had lost rubber, fix with 6 layers of tape in bowl. Gid’s taillamp rattly, too, it was reflector bowl just being slightly loose, edges padded with tape. Replaced tail bulb with kept “Argo” LED while in there, tho perhaps that brake isn’t as bright as it could be (misalignment not possible, offset bayonet)? Replaced Gid’s headlight relay, see if it resolves flicker (wasn’t flickering just before this, it has been intermittent). Interestingly the relay positions seem to be not as UK 2023 recorded in Him Book on pCloud. On 68, it was the LHS rear of the four, not LHS front. In the process I dropped the LHS front on the floor – seems undamaged, but do note when removed bike would not start. Kept old headlight relay, written 68 on it in pen. Adjusted Clare’s gearshift down a bit, as requested, Clare in UK so no test (Gid simply didn’t notice it riding back from TT).

30th Oct, unrecorded miles, Gid’s oil maybe a bit low. Clare maybe detects so headset looseness on braking. Gid detects maybe a slight glitchiness in 68 steering only manhandling on full (right?) lock. Added the last of the spare oil, maybe 100ml.
20th Oct, 16544. On flat (I think) both show oil above midpoint. Adjust chains. First time since new. Gids 3/4 turn. Some doubt about RHS, axle might be 1/4 turn FWD, as initially turn adjuster a tad before releasing axle. Clare’s 3/4 turn. Clare’s LH brake hose substitute clip loose, threadlocked ; tightened. Checked fork dust seals. Clare’s gaiters perished and don’t hold at bottom, leave gap. Cleaned seal area and tiewrapped bottoms. Replaced both Gid’s Givi tankbag lower bije straps (used shoulder strap) as red snaps 3 of 4 broken so don’t spring. Added a small blindspot mirror to Gid’s, it’s not much use, too small and not tilted left.
19th Oct, 16390. Oil on both seems low, tho no flat here. Top up. 150ml each.
7th Oct. Joshua Tree. 15100approx. Oil on both maybe a bit low, at low marks, tho surface not fully flat. Added 150ml to each, taking to mid line.
17th Sept. Clare: 14764, Gid: 13370. Changed both bikes F brake fluid. Both bikes, esp Gid’s, lever went very limp during process, gradually recovering between squeezes. Odd, but ended up ok. No, is normal reservoir to system flow.
15th Sept. Gid. Replaced front LHS screen rubber. Headlight has today stopped flickering, but pulled apart and checked, all seems fine. Clare: Replaced 5/8″? pclip (aka rubber lined clamp/clip) on RHS brake hose with 3/8″, better fit.
8th Sept. Brian’s place in the California woods. Gid 12673miles. Clare’s, strip down rear end. All linkage etc seem ok. Drag link front and mid needles a bit dry but ok, grease up nicely. For front, torque 50Nm has to be estimated due access. RHS drop link swingarm bolt pretty loose. Otherwise all good and all needles still some grease, replenished. Cush little worn. Both bikes, sprockets looked pretty good, could reuse next time. Chains definitely stretched, and master links very visibly worn (and borh totally dry, kept as spares tho) Chain adjusters allowed -10 turns before stop. Added 3/4 turn to set tension.
Gids Front S nut less tight. Easy with wood jam and breaker bar. Clare’s needed cheater pipe. Strip, clean, grease rear susp, as Clare’s front of drag link estimated torque. LHS swingarm pivot a lot of crud, tho not actually in bearing. Swingarm end of drops pretty dry, but all bearings basically fine. Cush fine. Adjusters only about 8 or 9 turns before stop, fewer on RHS, had to go back. Therefore not certain of total, and not entirely certain have not disturbed alignment. Doing both bikes in good circumstances, one mistake prematurely removing Clare’s wheel, took 1 1/2 days.
Hints: Crack front sprocket before removing wheel! Jam 2×3 in chain, works well.
4th Sept. 12381miles. Reno Triumph. Gid 2 new tyres, Clare new front. Removals all UK legal, but not much depth 1-3mm on centre. New all Trailmax Mission, as no reply to Shinko query. Dread of punctures though, very very stiff. New lever? Both thing steering feels stiff and wooden. Gid’s alignment still seems to pull slightly right.
4th Sept pm. About +8 miles. Added ~100ml oil to Gid’s as wasn’t really midway, Clare’s fine. No leaks visible except possibly rear of Clare’s drain bung, so nipped up a bit. Tightened Clare’s chain 1 turn. Rerouted Clare’s abraded brake hoses with pclips (photos), also eased that ABS wire (so not tight on full right lock. Now is other side of the clutch wire). And replaced the crunched overflow pipe, although that may not have been useful, as it still reached rear of gearbox.
4th Sept am. Reno Triumph. Clare gains new Trailmax Mission front. Advised cush fine. Gid gains Trailmax Mission bormth ends (130/80 rear, like Clare’s). Chain adjusted, alignment checked. Advised some cush slop but ok.
3rd Sept am. Clare’s ABS->caliper, LHS, is abraded right through the rubber sleeve, but not the hose. It’s a jam fit at tank because the stupid frame bracket forces it out. RHS similar but less so. Discussed here, known issue:
https://www.royalenfieldowners.com/index.php?threads/2022-him-front-brake-hoses-abraded-at-tank-front-edge.8642/#post-85317
Decided to remove bracket and tiewrap to frame. Better. Keep under review.
3rd Sept am. Gid’s valve check. Both in spec. New plug, like Clare’s, old seemed almost loose (well, it is a crush washer?). Gid’s did take full 1/2 turn. Oops, tried to start sans fuel pump plug. No other issues found, except could some grit have got into exhaust area when opening cover?
2nd Sept pm. Clare valve check. Tank off. The fuel hose restraint is different from 2023, not faulty. The tank overflow pipe has gotten crunched at tank end, 5cm broken off, ineffective, need to replace. Spark plug surprisingly easy to remove, maybe near loose. Tightened air hose jubilee clip, very loose (awkward small hex key). Simply pulled up the overflow pipe for now. Noted both brake hoses routed under front of tank have abraded the outer shield, 23 model has different brackets.
Valve values were:
Ex 0.20 goes in. 0.25 can be forced in, partly, but not keen. No change reqd.
In 0.1 will go in, but 0.11 won’t. No change reqd.
Noted Clare’s sidestand switch only detects when it’s fully down. But so does Gid’s.
2nd Sept am. Clare 13588miles. No stored fault codes. Oil and filter change. Drained at 90C using diags. Also changed strainer since old one would not come out last time. It did now with pliers. New one came with new oring, used. Retained old strainer, oring, and Clare’s filter gasket just in case. On Clare’s bike only, oil covers reassembled with threadlock. Reset service indicator.
Gid 12315mile, oil and filter change. Drained at 90C using diags. No sign of cause of the recent leak. Motul 7100 15W-50. No new o-ring for strainer, but old looked fine. The two oil and filter changes took me roughly 9am-13:30. No real problems.
Gid recently gained a new fault code, same time as a P0261 (normally a botched start), this is a P0030 (P0030 – Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1, heater control -circuit malfunction). Clear and see if recurrs (didn’t immediately).
In Reno, acquired 11mm combo spanner just for front brake bleed.
1st-5th Sept. Stopped in Reno. Work at AirBnb (Tyler?)
29th, am. Repair Clare’s fork brace. Had one similar bolt, and the spacer, put rear. Front bodged with a much longer bolt and washer/m8 nut spacer. Lots threadlock. Front, upper part of thread a bit munged, could be historic, or me putting the longer bolt through (was only slightly stiff, and hole was thru threaded.).
29th am. Rest day at Illiad, Nevada, Changed Gid’s rear brake fluid.
28th Aug, evening, Clare spots that both bolts on RHS of fork brace are gone, as is the rear spacer! Fix with washers.
28th Aug, 11650, Morning. Gid’s oil around low line, added last 100ml or so of Motul, to below high, still a bit low on CS if rear wheel pushed down. Clare’s not checked for a while, barely visible! Add the Lucas 10w50 synthetic from Billings – about 420ml, to near the top line!
Chains loose again (photos of pull off, Gids, Clares). Perhaps not enough 200 miles back. Gid’s 1 turn. Clare’s 3/4. Noted a bit of slack in Clare’s cush drive.
Tyres all very consistent, all four 2psi down. Likely altitude change as much as anything (now at 1500m ish).
26th Aug, 11406, both chains, again, very slack. Clare’s took 2 turns. Gids ditto.
20th Aug, 10534, both chains notably very slack, knocking noises at low speeds. Tightened Clare’s 2 1/2 turns! On CS. Clare’s oil still near top line, albeit slight down slope. Gid’s oil near low line, facing opposite way up slope. Add 200 or so to Gid’s, to midway. Gids chain needed 1 1/2 turns, perhaps as last adjusted for the pulling to side, saw one slightly stiff link.
Tightened up both clutches 1/2 turn.
?? Aug, Around this time, replaced Clare’s rear brake fluid, raising the level.
12th Aug, about 9,290, Gid’s service indicator starts flashing again. As valves and oil now synced, cleared it.
11th Aug, after ~60 60mph hours, level still reasonable (car park fairly level). Still pulls to right, but I think quite a bit less.
10th Aug A. End day examination: Oil leak seems worse, after yesterday’s bolts nip, and seems to be above the upper rear bolt. Still only seepage but more splatter. On low line, so top up again, this time to high line, insofar as can regard camp as level.
10th Aug B. Gid’s pulling right possibly slightly worse, although as it was a one-road sort of day, wind may have affected. Anyway, if 1/4 turn tighten on RHS, turning rear wheel to right, made it slightly worse, try opposite. Tightened LHS 1/2 turn AND loosened RHS 1/2 turn, pointing rear wheel to left. To test.
9th Aug. Gid’s 8929. Both chains pretty slack. Adjusted both. Still plenty of adjustment left. This done on CS. On Gid’s, guess that the pulling right is from rear wheel pointing left, so added 1/4 turn on RH adjuster. Site not perfectly level, but Clare’s oil seems ok (nose a bit down). Gid’s below low line again (level?). Noted traces of oil around oil filter cover (round one), so nipped up bolts a bit – did seem a tad slack. Added 150ml or so. Changed Clare’s rear brake fluid, which had seemed a bit low, but wasn’t too bad, definitelya bit dark tho).
? At Beartooth HD in Billings, bought replacement oil strainer for Clare’s and oil filter kit, for gasket, for Gid’s leak. Not used yet.
6th Aug. 8255. Gid’s oil a bit low, add about 100ml. Rode into evening, Clare’s got no high beam, fortunately low stays on. The blue dash light comes on, so fault is downstream. Schematic says there’s no relay so it’s bulb or wiring locally. Around this time, Clare’s service indicator starts flashing – leave until next time?
31st July. AirBnb with flat by garage. Sure enough, Gid’s low beam is about 15cm above level @3-4m. Adjusted. RHS bolt madly stiff to release, otherwise easy.
23rd July. Noting, Gid’s bike still pulls to right, after, below, relieving fork.
20th July. 7925mi. Clare’s valve check, changed oil (1.6 plus a little) and filter and all gaskets/rings/washers. Could not extract strainer but looked clean. New air filter, old looked quite clean although don’t think changed at 3000. Checked head and front wheel, forks, rear wheel and swingarm all smooth and not loose. Checked hoses, lubed pivots and locks. Chain slack, tightened <1 turn. Valves were Ex .15<.20 now 0.24 maybe .25. In already in range. Spanner was not showing. Fuel tank evap pipe pressurised, seems odd, but RE forum confirns is normal this generation.

This oil Liquid Moly Motorbike 15w50 Street, fully synth.

19th July. 6641mi. Gid’s valve check, changed oil and filter and all gaskets/rings/washers. Little bit of muck (textile?) on strainer. New air filter, old looked quite clean although don’t think changed at 3000. Next day took out 300-400ml of oil to reduce level to top line. Found service bulletin saying 1.6-1.8 not 2.0L! Relieved forks, both yokes and brace and top nut. Checked alignment, seems good, not tested, yet. Checked head and front wheel, forks, rear wheel and swingarm all smooth and not loose. Checked hoses, lubed pivots and locks. Chain still snug. Valves were Ex .15<.20 now 0.25 maybe .26. In <0.04 now in range. Reset spanner by holding down SEL while turn ign on, and holding it for maybe 5s after wakeup.

17th July am. Campground check Gid’s only. Seems fine. Was it a false alarm?
16th July am. Rechecked oil. Gid’s very low, only just visible (sit on and CS methods). 6171.2mi (spanner started flashing on yesterday’s last restart or two). Possibly a bit of clanking in low gear when restarted late yesterday, without earplugs. Added ~330ml which took to halfway between low and high. Seems to be using it. Rechecked on CS after 100mi of gentle 55ish. Loads, over top line tho still in window. This last the only recent check on a nice level concrete forecourt, perhaps campgrounds aren’t good.
Clare’s oil fine on CS, looked lowish sit-on. Clare’s rear brake fluid seems low. Clare’s chain a bit slack.
15th July am. Checked oil. Clare’s 7144.7mi below min. Gid’s 5859.5mi almost, not quite, invisible. These with Clare sitting on. Possibly bikes slightly nose up. Added ~300ml to each, taking them both to just over min, as service due soon. Recent days have been cruising at 55-60 with few slowdowns.
5th July. Added 100ml of 15w50 to Clare’s bike. At Whitehorse Yamaha, removed both rear wheels, put in for new tyres:
Clare 5510 miles, Dunlop Trailmax Mission 130/80 17. Note originals 120/90, so this is 10mm wider and nominally 4mm lower. Fits fine. About $250CAD
Gid 4219 miles, Shinko 705, ditto size remarks. About $200CAD. Also bought spoke key, box of bolts, and glove proofing (and the 1L oil bottle). About $750 total (to be clear, includes 1 new tube and tyre labour, we did the wheels). Also retaped Gid’s rear mudguard, and reduced Clare’s preload to 1 step off max. Noted both axles sufficient grease (now more), cushes fine. However, cannot see actual bearings. Rear axle bolts a firm pull/push, but not a heave (with the 200mm lever).

Clare’s tyre manages about 3km between pump up and pretty flat. Good job the notice-it-place, AirBnB and Yukon Yam are about 6km apart sides of a triangle. Little pump works well.

4th July. Had checked oil that am at camp, Clare’s low mark, mine mid. Recall one was low after service, so think it’s just a bit short, not using. 15w50. In Whitehorse, Clare spots her rear is flat (sure it was ok when left campsite 3km away, it’s a short move day). It’s also worn out, pretty much (So’s Gid’s tho better, as 1,000miles less). After runaround, local Yam dealer can do 130/80×17, will fit fine (nominally 10mm wider, 4mm lower). Shinko 705, Dunlop Trailmax Mission, one of each available.

1st July, approx (noticed at Canadian border post), the forward of the two bolts securing Gi’d muffler heatshield is gone. M6 x 12mm or so, but no room overhead, has to be a hex. Fitted a ~20mm with a nut as spacer.

Fitted tank protector, bought at TMS, to Gid’s tank, the Givi tank bag is rubbing.

26th June. To Tim’s. He kindly took 20mm out of each sidestand, near foot, and rewelded. MUCH BETTER. Also we replaced, with threadlock, Clare’s M5 mudguard bolts (very fiddly), one of the tiewraps had gone.

26th June. Booked for 3000 mile service at TMS Anchorage. Mechanic advised valve check not needed unless issues (none). I recall Groombridge said the same. Asked for air filter change as been lots of dust.
Gid’s
Clare’s

The rubber boot over the switch on Clare’s rear brake is perished. Not replaceable, tape.

Wed 12th June, after our first full day (11th) on dirt road, setting off from Galbraith Lakes camp, Gid noted Clares numberplate flapping over the bumps. On Clare looking, two 10mm hex bolts holding rear inner up are loose, close to dropping. And, two rearward facing M5 bolts holding rear inner to strut are gone. Tightened former and tie wrapped latter. On a general check, Gid’s left hand front pannier rack bolt is totally loose, only 1mm out though. Right isn’t very tight, one of Clare’s too. Did not remove to threadlock as may need grunt.

All tightened, but as maybe alignment issues, did not remove and threadlock.

Also noted Wed 12th June 2024. Gid’s chain seems very tight, but adjuster at axle is forward. Recheck on CS? Well, there is a little slack on CS. Ditto Clare’s. Spoke with TMS when booking service, need to check spec. Yes. Seems to say use CS, slack 25-30mm. Think they are both a bit tight.

June. Gid’s bike is using maybe 20% more fuel than Clare’s. Also, less of an issue, fuel gauge is more pessimistic.

8th June or so. Fettled. Initially at Melissa’s Anchorage, final hookup at Tim’s.
Gid’s: Adjustable levers. Shock sock and side strip (which latter fell off before 3000miles). Kept existing SAE. LED headlight. Inner pannier rack bag R, toolbox L, lock bag. Preload max. Electrics incl Oxford heated grips, aux lights, front and rear USB, Gerbing plug, voltmeter. Front USB on centre of bars.

Clare’s: Adjustable brake lever, but clutch needs old pattern. Shock sock and side strip. Kept existing Handguards, SAE and LED headlight. Tank ring for bag. Inner pannier rack bags, lock bag. Preload max. Electrics incl Garmin Zumo XT mount, aux lights, front and rear USB, Gerbing plug, voltmeter. Front USB sideways on centre of bars.

5th or 6th June. 300 mile services. TMS Anchorage paid for Clare’s as rebuild follow-up. Have been pretty good about 3000rpm run in. Tedious.
4xx Gid’s
17xx Clare’s.

31st May 2024, Friday. Pick up both bikes.
5.6 miles IIRC Gid’s
~1323 miles Clare’s