We’ve reached Vienna.  We had a couple of full on days with headwinds but arrived before the rain set in.

White horses on the river and a bow wave breaking on the barge.

We have been stunningly fortunate to be able to stay in Monika’s flat near the center of Vienna. Monika is busy cycling to North Cape & very kindly allowed us to use her flat.

The route has been very smooth, staying quite faithfully to the  bank.  This has worked against us in the strong headwinds we have had these last few days as there was no shelter. Some days we could only grind out 15kph or so, and 80km days have been hard work. Sunny & warm though. The penultimate day before Vienna, there were white horses on the river, really a stiff breeze.

But the last day, weather broke, misty and dull, few drizzly showers, but less wind, and we covered 117km to Vienna without hardship. It tipped down overnight, but we were snug!

Broadly speaking, as we approached the Austrian border the Danube changed character.  We took a boat trip through the famous “breakthrough” gorge section where every prominent feature was named.

This rock is called The Maiden.  She looks rather pregnant to me.

The river continued with a narrow passage and steep hills either  side on into Austria where it eventually wiggled round the ‘great meander’ before widening out again, as we progressed further.

There were many beautiful castles, monasteries & churches high up on the hill tops through this section commanding excellent views of the river, that can be seen from miles away.

There are a lot of ferries, many taking bikes, well, there are a lot of radfarrers following the radweg.

The radweg runs on both sides, and one day we took ferries three times, not entirely necessarily. At €2.50 each pp, it made some dent in the daily budget (Which is about €30 each per day).

We’ve been inside a number of the churches when chilling out in the town centers & they are all very spectacular. The stone carvings much more extensive and, well, floweryer, than in England. We also remarked on the changing styles of church spires.

Since France really, we have seen little evidence of local rural life. Although we have frequently passed through agricultural land we’ve seen very little activity.  In Austria the crops have changed from arable into orchards and vineyards, although these are in small strips.

One older man in a leather apron was using a pitchfork to load hay onto a small cart & another was wandering across a good sized field of seedlings with a hoe but I had expected to see much more evidence of more ancient ways of life.  I guess it will come as we travel further east.

After parting with Dave, we headed south, leaving the castles route. Away from the river valley, it became more rolling, but still very pleasant. Ended up at a club site, tho not sure what club: ever so friendly, but alas after a long day, we’re good only for bed.
On leaving, we remarked on the rarity of a start downhill. Little did we know, after very few km, we hit a monster: 2km of 16%. Ouch! After that, rolling country, mostly little farm tracks, but well surfaced. The next site is commercial, but home it seems to a small permanent community,  living in caravans that have grown roots; we often see those on German sites. One gent kindly offers us a big pot of boiled spuds n carrots, overcatered it seems. A welcome change from our endless pasta.
Shortly after leaving, the way is hastily blocked by a farmer, whose cows then come round the corner. Then off the road they trot, into a lush green buttercuppy meadow, to happy moos and a bit of gambling. He explains it’s their first time out this year. Last week there was deep snow here, the cows were still indoors. Then he invites us in for a coffee, but alas, we really need to get on. This becoming typical, so many people are so kind.
After some time over this rolling idyll, we are closing on Ulm. This is a long-planned stop, to meet up with some of Gideon’s friends from Continental. Both Melchior and Joe had offered us a bed. Joe’s location was a lot better, so to Blaustein we went. Amazingly the last 5km were flat. But Joe put in a last little really steep Street, to make us appreciate the rest.
Wonderful warm reception from Joe and Anke & daughter Anja. Melchior turned up for tea and to plot the next few days.
Weds was a welcome rest day, visiting Ulm, climbing the steps up the Munster, and replacing some broken kit. Oh, and our first real blog update… That took hours! Also got useful input on Gideon’s creaking front hub, from Joe’s favoured bike shop. But nothing can be done quickly enough, as Thursday is a bank holiday. So it’ll have to soldier on.
Many, many thanks to Joe & family for the hospitality. Besides the physical benefits, it was so nice being wrapped up in real home, and having extended conversations and joining in.
Thurs morning, we set off with Joe and Anke (nice new bike!), and RV with Melchior and Sonia at the station. Off we all go down the Donau (Danube in English) radweg.

Since the Worthing crew returned home there had been a serious change in the weather.  It’s no longer shorts, t-shirt and don’t forget the sun cream.  Rain and snow have given the water proofs a good testing.  We’ve all now invested in Marigolds to add a waterproof layer over our gloves.

Cycling in the snow

Nearby there was 30 – 40 cm of snow.  Joe and Melchoir said they were thinking of sending us their studded tyres
It’s been quite interesting crossing the boarders.  France was beautiful and very rural while Belgium seemed to have a more urban feel to it.  My thoughts on Luxemburg are dominated by the city.  Luxemburg city is stunning with many well preserved medieval ruins.  We followed a signed tour of the ancient city which provided beautiful panoramic views as the city cascades from seriously high to river side with roads and buildings on many levels.
Germany is our fourth country and we’re still trying to switch bonjour for gutten Morgen.
So far we have managed to select a good balance between scenic minor roads, lanes and main roads.  At times they all have some serious hills which drastically affect the mileage achieved in a day.
Mannheim, situated on the Rhine, looked beautiful as we rolled in.

Leaving Luxembourg City, we found ourselves wanting a few bike bits. A quick search whilst at the auberge showed us one bike shop in roughly the direction we wanted. Dave programmed his Garmin, which duly led is down into, then up from, another Luxembourgish ravine. Then back down again, to pitch up at Andy Schleck Cycles. But we discovered not a bike shop, but a temple to the bicycle. Sleek racing machines gleamed in every corner, and actually even the floors gleamed too.
Andy Schleck himself was there, and on hearing of our mission, offered us a goody bag of sports fuel, and a photo-op.
And we all got to shake the hand of the 2010 Tour winner.