After parting with Dave, we headed south, leaving the castles route. Away from the river valley, it became more rolling, but still very pleasant. Ended up at a club site, tho not sure what club: ever so friendly, but alas after a long day, we’re good only for bed.
On leaving, we remarked on the rarity of a start downhill. Little did we know, after very few km, we hit a monster: 2km of 16%. Ouch! After that, rolling country, mostly little farm tracks, but well surfaced. The next site is commercial, but home it seems to a small permanent community,  living in caravans that have grown roots; we often see those on German sites. One gent kindly offers us a big pot of boiled spuds n carrots, overcatered it seems. A welcome change from our endless pasta.
Shortly after leaving, the way is hastily blocked by a farmer, whose cows then come round the corner. Then off the road they trot, into a lush green buttercuppy meadow, to happy moos and a bit of gambling. He explains it’s their first time out this year. Last week there was deep snow here, the cows were still indoors. Then he invites us in for a coffee, but alas, we really need to get on. This becoming typical, so many people are so kind.
After some time over this rolling idyll, we are closing on Ulm. This is a long-planned stop, to meet up with some of Gideon’s friends from Continental. Both Melchior and Joe had offered us a bed. Joe’s location was a lot better, so to Blaustein we went. Amazingly the last 5km were flat. But Joe put in a last little really steep Street, to make us appreciate the rest.
Wonderful warm reception from Joe and Anke & daughter Anja. Melchior turned up for tea and to plot the next few days.
Weds was a welcome rest day, visiting Ulm, climbing the steps up the Munster, and replacing some broken kit. Oh, and our first real blog update… That took hours! Also got useful input on Gideon’s creaking front hub, from Joe’s favoured bike shop. But nothing can be done quickly enough, as Thursday is a bank holiday. So it’ll have to soldier on.
Many, many thanks to Joe & family for the hospitality. Besides the physical benefits, it was so nice being wrapped up in real home, and having extended conversations and joining in.
Thurs morning, we set off with Joe and Anke (nice new bike!), and RV with Melchior and Sonia at the station. Off we all go down the Donau (Danube in English) radweg.

Since the Worthing crew returned home there had been a serious change in the weather.  It’s no longer shorts, t-shirt and don’t forget the sun cream.  Rain and snow have given the water proofs a good testing.  We’ve all now invested in Marigolds to add a waterproof layer over our gloves.

Cycling in the snow

Nearby there was 30 – 40 cm of snow.  Joe and Melchoir said they were thinking of sending us their studded tyres
It’s been quite interesting crossing the boarders.  France was beautiful and very rural while Belgium seemed to have a more urban feel to it.  My thoughts on Luxemburg are dominated by the city.  Luxemburg city is stunning with many well preserved medieval ruins.  We followed a signed tour of the ancient city which provided beautiful panoramic views as the city cascades from seriously high to river side with roads and buildings on many levels.
Germany is our fourth country and we’re still trying to switch bonjour for gutten Morgen.
So far we have managed to select a good balance between scenic minor roads, lanes and main roads.  At times they all have some serious hills which drastically affect the mileage achieved in a day.
Mannheim, situated on the Rhine, looked beautiful as we rolled in.

Leaving Luxembourg City, we found ourselves wanting a few bike bits. A quick search whilst at the auberge showed us one bike shop in roughly the direction we wanted. Dave programmed his Garmin, which duly led is down into, then up from, another Luxembourgish ravine. Then back down again, to pitch up at Andy Schleck Cycles. But we discovered not a bike shop, but a temple to the bicycle. Sleek racing machines gleamed in every corner, and actually even the floors gleamed too.
Andy Schleck himself was there, and on hearing of our mission, offered us a goody bag of sports fuel, and a photo-op.
And we all got to shake the hand of the 2010 Tour winner.

MANNHEIM was the start of our castle route. We’ve been following the trail for 3 days and seen 15 castles.  Initially, the route was along the River Neckar were we whizzed along enjoying easy cycling conditions but it couldn’t last.  Today we changed from the river side route to face headwinds & hills.
The castles have been awesome. Many have been immediately on our route while others have proved more difficult to find.  Waldenberg was the first to have both Gid & myself pushing the bikes up the last 50 metres or so. Heidelberg was so stunning that we camped nearby & went exploring. Tomorrow we visit our last castle before heading down to Ulm to visit Gid’s friends.
Schwabisch Hall, was delightful, conical towers, turreted tower, castle walls the lot.  It was a grand sight sitting on it’s hill top to finish our castle explorations.
This latter part of southern Germany has shared many characteristics of our French route.  There has been far more evidence of rural farming with ancient tractors trundling through village centres, large wooden barns and farm machinery in various states of repair.  The farming itself has seemed to be on a very large scale with fields stretching as far as the eye can see but not a hedge in sight. It’s very possible that the fields are sectioned up.  We had a near escape with one farmer who was muck spreading next to our cycle path. He very kindly turned towards us directing the muck the other way. We passed, exchanging wry grins.
The German cycle tracks have been outstanding.  We have travelled long distances on these routes that are mainly paved, frequently across the fields, with not a horse trodden quagmire  to be seen.

Dieppe then. Although the road east avoids the town completely. We’ve visited before on Rout Vert, and very nice it is too. The next few days of northern France,  reminds us (me?) how perfect Normandie & Brittany are for cycle touring.  It’s clear & sunny, so flippin freezing at night. Not that Paul, Neale & Martin know, snugged up in their hotel.

Off we go. And quite soon it’s clear that multiple navigation techs, two quite different accomodation systems,  and natural human diversity makes for an hilariously slow and democratic decision making process. Even more, routewise, as the Garmins, as usual, go round in circles avoiding main roads, but never agree with each other. Fortunately, their number is cut from 3 to 2 when Neale manages to lose Martin’s Garmin en route. Good job it was so old. But it’s all totally friendly and jolly,  and involves many cafes and patisseries.

We find we don’t make so much of our intended 100km per day, but there’s always good reason. It’d be nice to stop longer in some places, especially, we hadn’t planned it, but we tracked part of the WW1 front line; very moving, just so many dead. Vimy battlefield partly preserved, hardly any not all cratered.

Unfortunately, Neale’s father was then unwell, and Neale, Martin & Paul caught a train home a day or two early. Many thanks guys, for a wonderful send off.

After a day of just 3 of us, we pedalled with charming young Belgian Valentine most of a day, learning how to follow Belgian cycling routes. He’s en route to Rome, so our routes soon diverge. Not before a few Ardennes hills though, perhaps the northern Eurovelo had its advantages?

Posted from the comfy bar at Gedinne camping.